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E210 | Japan’s “Lost 30 Years” Made China’s Most In-Demand Restaurant Chains?
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E210 | Japan’s “Lost 30 Years” Made China’s Most In-Demand Restaurant Chains?

Summary

  • Sushiro and Hama Sushi won China not through rock-bottom pricing, but by compressing the value proposition of “premium Japanese dining” into average checks of roughly RMB120 and RMB80, then converting traffic through entertainment and exceptionally high table turns. Sushiro remains above Haidilao’s RMB90-plus and Green Tea’s RMB60-plus, yet gives customers a similar category experience for a fraction of the RMB300–500 starting price at traditional sushi counters; peak waits reach at least 2 hours, and the show even paid RMB40 for a scalped queue number. Food & Life’s share price is now 2.7x its level 2 years ago, while Senquan Holdings has risen more than 3x since 2021.

  • China transformed Japanese conveyor-belt sushi’s “thin margins, high volume” model into “fatter margins, high volume.” A Japanese store typically requires RMB10M–15M of investment, with some reaching RMB20M, and usually takes 5–6 years to pay back; according to operators cited on the show, Sushiro turns tables roughly 6 times on weekdays and 10–15 times on weekends or holidays in China, delivering payback in 1–1.5 years for standard stores and 7–8 months for express formats. Japan’s roughly 55% gross margin, 40%–50% food-cost ratio and 25%–30% labor-cost ratio are amplified in China, where wages are lower and average checks are higher.

  • The real moat in conveyor-belt sushi is decades of “linear innovation” that cut waste from roughly 13% to about 1%, while shifting service labor to machines and customers. Automated checkout in 1999, 350-meter freshness controls in 2001, touchscreens in 2005, express tracks and RFID in 2007, followed by automated plate washing, AI price checks and demand forecasting, progressively eliminated uncertainty in serving, payment and provisioning. Dongzi’s summary: “The entire restaurant is a sushi factory, and every diner is a worker standing on the assembly line—responsible only for eating.”

  • Dongzi rejects reducing Japan’s “Lost 30 Years” to a cost-cutting and efficiency playbook worth copying, because the other side of corporate efficiency is the long-term squeeze on social profits, wages and creativity. In his view, 2 generations of workers lacked raises and security, clinging to their only acorn like Scrat in Ice Age while society shifted its attention from innovation to saving money. “Don’t benchmark against Japan”: cost reduction and efficiency can continue, but “you can’t grip it too tightly.”

  • Saizeriya and Marugame Udon share more than low prices: both first lock onto the value peak customers feel most strongly, then force the supply chain and stores to meet it. Saizeriya reverse-engineers pricing from what customers are willing to pay, moving pasta from dried noodles to frozen noodles to rapid heating after unsealing the package, while reaching upstream into lettuce varieties and tomato plant height; Marugame stages fresh-cut, freshly boiled noodles in an open kitchen, and still outperformed a competitor whose pre-prepared udon was 30% cheaper. The latter delivers orders in roughly 20 seconds and can process 100 customers in 30 minutes; company gross margin was about 76% based on figures cited for 2023.

  • Venture Link’s rise and fall shows that financializing restaurant chains remains constrained by quality locations, while leverage only pushes supply into the ceiling faster. The listed company, launched around 2000 and bankrupt by 2012, incubated systems including Gyu-Kaku, Tully’s and Saint Marc, connecting brands with local financiers through operating know-how, franchisees and bank loans. The problem: only 5–10 of every 100 sites may be genuinely good. Once the best locations were exhausted, returns on new stores fell rapidly, and the expansion bubble jointly driven by brands, franchisees and banks burst.

  • Japan’s “中食” market shows that industrialized foodservice will not disappear; it will simply re-segment around price, use case and trust. Based on expenditure figures cited on the show, home cooking, eating out and 中食 account for 57%, 33% and 10%, respectively; convenience-store bento and supermarket prepared food undercut fast food by roughly 30%, while Dongzi considers delivery part of 中食 and sees Japan’s growing single population as a structural demand source. Consumers have effectively accepted 中食 through delivery, but “pre-prepared food” is a production-side term that has become a distrust label because of information asymmetry.

  • The valuation premium for going abroad comes from incremental markets, but only “efficiency kings” that localize and make their capabilities explicit can earn an export ticket. Food & Life, Senquan and Saizeriya trade at roughly 38–40x earnings, with some measures above 40x, reflecting capital’s weighting toward overseas growth after Japan’s population, income and food consumption peaked; China is neither the only nor necessarily the first-choice market for Japanese restaurant companies, with Europe and the US equally important. Chinese brands entering Japan, meanwhile, break through by having “no baggage”: Yang Guo Fu offers spicy malatang with “real flavor,” while M Stand turns coffee into a beverage category—but must accept net margins often limited to 2%–5%, slow payback and the possibility that a store can operate steadily for 10 years.

Deep dive

1. The Queue Kings Sell Affordable High Value, Not the Lowest Price

  • Mahua opened with the contrast: while China’s restaurant industry is trapped in low-price competition, Sushiro is drawing queues from Beijing and Guangzhou to Shenzhen and Hong Kong, with peak waits of at least 2 hours; before recording, the hosts even paid RMB40 for a scalped queue number to bypass a booking backlog reportedly extending 1 month.

  • Third-party platform data puts Sushiro’s average check at roughly RMB120 and Hama Sushi’s at about RMB80, above Haidilao’s RMB90-plus and Green Tea’s RMB60-plus. Dongzi’s explanation is that fish carries an inherent value signal, while 20 years of premium Japanese-dining positioning have already penetrated China’s cities. Traditional sushi counters typically start at “RMB300–500,” leaving conveyor-belt sushi to fill the value-for-money gap.

  • The value proposition is not just the food. Sushiro makes customers handle ordering, hot water and utensils, then replenishes the experience through touchscreens, localized toppings and a lucky draw triggered every RMB60 spent. It works especially well for families and student gatherings; the “entertainment component is very strong,” making self-service feel like more than service削减.

2. China Turned Japan’s Thin-Margin Model into “More Profit, More Volume”

  • Conveyor-belt sushi is not a low-barrier startup. Dongzi puts the required Japanese investment at roughly RMB10M–15M per store, with some reaching RMB20M, or approximately JPY300M–600M, and a typical payback period of 5–6 years; restaurant leases can run 10–12 years, while Chinese leases are shorter. As a result, he says, Japanese operators may actually set lower price and profit requirements than domestic Chinese restaurants.

  • But Chinese store throughput rewrote the math. Data from a restaurant investor put Sushiro’s table turns at roughly 6 times on weekdays and 10–15 times on weekends or holidays. Haidilao averages about 4.1 turns, while Green Tea and Meet Fresh Noodles are above 3; by comparison, Sushiro reportedly pays back in 1–1.5 years for ordinary stores and 7–8 months for express formats.

  • Japanese conveyor-belt sushi runs at roughly 55% gross margin, with food accounting for 40%–50% of costs and labor for 25%–30%. It can only deliver “thin margins, high volume” by selling more per store. China’s lower wages and higher sushi checks led Dongzi to call the Chinese model “more profit, more volume.”

  • The real breakout did not come immediately upon entering China. Sushiro and Hama Sushi arrived early, but only began showing meaningful growth in financial reports around early 2024. Dongzi observed that this may have coincided with the period when shopping-mall traffic was under the greatest pressure and consumers most strongly felt that “their wallets were shrinking,” allowing the chains’ value proposition—after years of incubation—to be amplified by the environment.

3. The Winners Filtered by Japan’s “Lost 30 Years” Were Not Companies That Only Know How to Save

  • Dongzi describes Japan’s 30 years as “continuous spiral deflation”: household restaurant budgets kept shrinking, and the industry’s total market contracted with them. The companies that survived the cycle were not simply frugal; they executed obsessively on the small number of things customers genuinely valued.

  • When peers are all using pre-prepared solutions and upstream suppliers have become interchangeable, fresh preparation, freshness or a distinctive texture can become the decisive differentiator. Heavy industrialization does not prevent a company from manufacturing the feeling of freshness; the key is to spend cost where users can clearly perceive it.

  • Saizeriya’s founder prices new products almost by instinct. He brings a new item to a meeting and first asks, “How much would you pay for this?” If the answer is too high, he gets unhappy. The company insists on “selling good things cheaply,” much like IKEA: first set the price consumers will accept, then reverse-engineer the product and process.

4. Conveyor-Belt Sushi Built a Technology Moat Through Decades of Linear Innovation

  • The first innovation wave was price transparency. In Japan in the 1960s, sushi restaurants commonly listed prices as “market price.” Operators later converted them into annualized averages, accepting losses in some periods and profits in others in exchange for predictable pricing that encouraged customers to order.

  • Conveyor-belt sushi remained basic through the 1970s and 1980s: 2 or 3 chefs faced 50 or 60 counter seats, placing hand-formed sushi around a track. In the 1990s, stores expanded to roughly 500–600 square meters with 150 seats, M-shaped tracks and 4-person booths. Chefs moved into the back, allowing machines to enter the process out of customers’ sight.

  • Around 2010, Dongzi’s 4.0 version began to emerge: automated checkout in 1999; freshness management in 2001 that discarded sushi after it traveled 350 meters; touchscreens in 2005 to reduce servers; express tracks and RFID in 2007 for item-level tracking, demand forecasting and rapid delivery; and automated plate and chopstick cleaning after 2010.

  • Mahua used this to challenge the impression that Japanese companies lack innovation. Dongzi’s distinction is that they “lack leapfrog innovation” but excel at “innovating linearly,” step by step. The store they visited the day before used AI cameras to verify plate values; Dongzi said he had heard that Sushiro and Hama Sushi embed chips in plates, while some sushi restaurants can scan an entire stack of dishes at once—similar in logic to Uniqlo’s inventory scanning.

5. “Conveyor-Belt Sushi No Longer Revolves”: Deeper Automation Creates Exclusivity

  • Kura Sushi divides the track into 3 levels: an upper express track that delivers orders immediately, a middle standard conveyor layer with patented freshness covers, and a lower return tunnel invisible to customers. Every 5 plates triggers a lottery; the capsule prizes lift average checks while inducing customers to collect plates and count them for the store.

  • The tunnel ultimately feeds an automated plate washer, while RFID settles the bill along the way, eliminating the labor of collecting and counting dishes. Dongzi summarizes the changes of the past decade in one line: “Conveyor-belt sushi no longer revolves” (回转寿司不回转了). Customers receive the exclusivity of having exactly what they ordered delivered directly to them; the back end gets a shorter, more predictable workflow.

  • Automatic sorters on the M-shaped track let the kitchen make the required quantities from a screen and place them on the track, without determining which of 3 branches corresponds to each order. Even the automatic sushi-forming machines introduced in the 1980s have continued to evolve: early chopping blades damaged the texture of the cut surface, while later fork-shaped structures preserved the three-dimensional feel in the mouth without sacrificing efficiency.

6. Cutting Waste from 13% to 1% Is the Foundation of Store Economics

  • In the 1990s, conveyor-belt sushi could not predict when customers would arrive, how much they would eat or what they would order, so stores had to keep producing; waste ran at roughly 13%, meaning 1 in every 10 or so pieces could be discarded. Leading brands are now around 1%, using item-level data, freshness controls, demand forecasts for incoming customers and next-day ingredient orders.

  • Dongzi’s causal chain is straightforward: less thawing, less production and less disposal let companies improve freshness and experience without materially changing prices. The money once thrown away was ultimately paid by consumers; technology releases that hidden cost.

  • He uses his most vivid metaphor for the store: “The entire restaurant is a sushi factory, and every diner is a worker standing on the assembly line, responsible only for eating.” Restaurants combine production, retail and service. Sushiro rebuilt the uncertainty in the latter 2 through manufacturing methods, giving customers the visceral sense of being “force-fed” with extreme efficiency.

7. Saizeriya Rebuilt Stores and Supply Chains So Low Prices Would Not Depend Only on Margin Compression

  • Saizeriya’s pasta evolved from dried noodles cooked to order, to processed frozen noodles, and finally to noodles that can be heated immediately after the package is opened. Each step reduced cooking time, equipment requirements, kitchen footprint and operational difficulty, with store optimization advancing alongside supply-chain packaging technology.

  • Vertical sourcing is particularly effective in Japan, where the layered structure from agricultural cooperatives to distributors to farmers adds both transit time and price. Saizeriya bypasses intermediaries, asks farmers to grow to its specifications and intervenes in production methods, allowing the retail side to control cost and freshness.

  • It extends precision into the crops themselves: finding lettuce varieties that produce more cuttable leaves and keeping tomato plants from growing too tall to improve harvesting efficiency. Dongzi stresses that these investments are concentrated in items such as salads, where Japanese consumers are highly sensitive; low prices and freshness must convert into channel trust.

  • Mahua asked whether China should do the same. Dongzi’s reservation is that China’s upstream supply base is even more fragmented, and restaurant companies can often let suppliers “compete each other down,” making it less worthwhile to cultivate a dedicated supply chain. Vertical investment is more likely to work only at sufficient scale, as with Mixue Bingcheng’s lemons.

8. Standardization Must Know How to Perform: Marugame Udon Proves Cheap Is Not Enough

  • On the question of how to combine standardization and differentiation, Dongzi’s answer is that merchants must “be good at performing.” Concentrate fresh preparation, visible operations or interaction into a few experience peaks so the front end looks customized while the back end remains standardized. The atmosphere of a live kitchen need not run through the entire process; it only needs to appear where customers feel it most.

  • Marugame Udon places fresh-cut, freshly boiled noodles in an open kitchen without glass barriers, bringing smoke, aroma and frenetic movement directly into customers’ sightlines. A restaurant operator in Dongzi’s circle said Japanese customers “especially like watching you work”; Mahua added that the sensory sequence starts with sight and smell, before the final taste on the palate.

  • Based on Dongzi’s 2023 research, a Marugame store generates monthly sales of roughly RMB500,000-plus, while company gross margin is about 76%; the most basic udon costs roughly RMB80, with item-level gross margin potentially reaching 90%. The key metric is not menu breadth but time from order to handoff, which the line design compresses to roughly 20 seconds.

  • Stores of roughly 100–120-plus square meters—later summarized by Dongzi as about 100 square meters—can process 100 customers in 30 minutes; Japanese customers typically finish within 10 minutes and eat there 3 times a week. Competitor Hanamaru Udon uses entirely pre-prepared noodles and is 30% cheaper, yet still failed to beat Marugame. That is why Dongzi calls conveyor-belt sushi the “ultimate version of pre-prepared food”: the real difference lies in how the assembled product is delivered as an experience.

9. Once Cost Cutting and Efficiency Become Social Goals, Innovation Gets Consumed

  • Dongzi explicitly rejects romanticizing Japan’s experience: 30 years of relentless cost cutting and efficiency reduced social profit margins and squeezed upstream suppliers and workers, leaving 2 generations who entered the job market from the 1990s onward with stagnant wages and little security. “When you have no security, you have no creativity.”

  • His metaphor is Scrat from Ice Age clutching the only acorn, with society entering a defensive posture. When GDP does not grow and no new value is created, people are more likely to blame others for their own predicament; Dongzi even links this psychology to the emergence of Japan’s far-right politics.

  • His conclusion is not that companies should stop controlling costs, but that “cost reduction and efficiency may not be the only answer.” Profit requirements make the work necessary, but companies cannot “grip it too tightly.” The show opened by noting that Japan’s restaurant industry produced 11 ten-baggers over those 30 years; Dongzi still insisted: “Don’t benchmark against Japan.”

10. Venture Link Proved That Financialized Chains Cannot Escape the Scarcity of Quality Locations

  • Venture Link operated from roughly 2000 until its bankruptcy in 2012, peaking around 2004. It helped incubate brands including Gyu-Kaku, Tully’s and Saint Marc; Dongzi said nearly a dozen listed restaurant companies emerged from the system.

  • It did not primarily deploy heavy capital. Instead, it identified brands with national potential, embedded chain-management and technical know-how, then handed franchise rights to local power brokers with resources and idle capital but no attractive growth projects. Mahua described it as a methodology platform linking brands and financiers; Dongzi called it a “consulting-style general contractor.”

  • The collapse began with the physical constraint of site selection: only 5–10 of every 100 locations may be truly high quality. Once the best sites were filled, new brands and new stores began cannibalizing one another, and returns declined continuously. Brands asked why stores could not be opened; franchisees asked why returns missed expectations; the general contractor absorbed pressure from both sides.

  • Leverage accelerated saturation. Banks allied with Venture Link were willing to lend to local financiers because Venture Link provided consulting, taking their land or other assets as collateral. The combined demands of brands, franchisees, the general contractor and banks drove supply higher, then the system broke rapidly when the expected returns failed to materialize.

11. 中食 Uses Retail Efficiency to Squeeze Fast Food—and Exposes the Trust Problem Around Pre-Prepared Food

  • In Japanese usage, eating at a restaurant is “外食,” cooking at home is “内食,” and buying food outside to eat at home or in the office is “中食.” Convenience-store bento and supermarket hot-food counters fall into the category; Dongzi considers delivery 中食 as well. An older expenditure breakdown cited on the show puts 内食 at 57%, 外食 at 33% and 中食 at 10%.

  • 中食 has no restaurant service cost and can be roughly 30% cheaper than ordinary fast food, making it the most direct threat to chain fast food. Its structural growth driver is the single-person population: cooking for 1 person is inefficient in both time and money, while eating out is expensive, making 中食 a stable solution balancing price and convenience.

  • Dongzi says “pre-prepared food” must first be divided into 4R: Ready to Cook, Ready to Eat, Ready to Heat and Ready to Prepare. Cut vegetables and meat, meal kits and heat-and-eat food do not belong to the same tier. Chinese consumers have effectively accepted 中食 through widespread delivery; the controversy is driven more by information asymmetry and distrust between supply and demand.

  • Senquan Holdings’ annual revenue should be “RMB60B–70B this year,” according to Dongzi. Its 2 fastest-growing segments are Hama Sushi and sushi retail counters; the latter operate in the UK and US and are growing even faster than the physical conveyor-belt sushi business. Industrialized food has not disappeared—it has shifted from restaurant service into retail products.

12. Sushi Can Globalize Because It Combines Health Signaling with Assembly Efficiency

  • Consumers see high protein and a relatively low-oil health image; operators see frozen seafood that can be pre-cut, rice shaped automatically by machines and stores that only need to assemble the final product. Affordable sushi therefore combines a strong value signal with low operational complexity.

  • Dongzi preserves an important contrast: genuine hand-formed sushi has a high skill threshold, because the chef must preserve the rice’s three-dimensional texture on entry. But once customers cannot see the hand-forming process, a rice-forming machine plus a slice of thawed fish can complete the job efficiently. The show also noted that many Japanese restaurants in the US are operated by Korean Americans; Dongzi joked that this is “because to Americans, you all look the same,” without clearly presenting it as evidence of standardization.

  • The hosts cited a report saying Senquan’s sushi restaurants in Europe and the US are all acquisitions; Dongzi then shifted to explaining the globalization of sushi as a product. Kikkoman’s recent growth has also been driven by Europe and the US, with Japanese dining abroad pulling soy sauce overseas. China is not the only incremental market; overseas sales also include South America and Southeast Asia, and sushi is one of the more replicable vehicles for Japanese restaurant globalization.

13. Mature-Market Competition Splits Restaurants into Entrepreneurship, M&A and Expansion

  • As leading Japanese restaurant groups hit growth bottlenecks, acquisitions became the default; Senquan, Yoshinoya and Colowide, the parent of Gyu-Kaku, all fit this pattern. Large groups divide work by department, while new brands need rapid cross-functional adjustments and inevitably collide with existing interests, making incubation success rare.

  • The deeper constraint is that internal projects are often required to use the group’s existing purchasing advantages and ingredients, locking in boundaries from day 1. Young operators who understand lifestyles therefore handle the 0-to-1 phase, open 2 or 3 stores and then sell the brand, or retain the original stores while licensing subsequent expansion rights to a large group.

  • Small Japanese restaurants face low margins, intense competition and low survival rates; banks do not want to lend, and funds are even less willing to invest. Large groups can access capital. Dongzi argues that founders are not inherently unwilling to scale; there simply is “not enough era-wide tailwind” to support turning 2 or 3 stores into a listed company.

  • Qibao Malatang is a case study in this division of labor. After opening 2 or 3 stores, the founder licensed expansion; the chain now has 31 stores, while he frequently appears on blind wine-tasting programs. It replaces Yang Guo Fu’s self-service weighing with a fixed set menu priced at more than JPY1,000, or roughly RMB50–60, and adds herbal cuisine, vermicelli and weight-loss concepts to reduce Japanese consumers’ price uncertainty.

14. Cross-Border Replication Often Fails on Differences in Soil and Unspoken Rules

  • Dongzi criticizes treating Japan as “China 20 years from now”—a textbook case of “刻舟求剑.” Japan’s high consumption of chilled food makes it more suitable for pre-prepared products, while China emphasizes stir-frying to order; China also has more varied supply and production origins, making vertical sourcing less certain to pay off. Labor economics differ just as sharply: Sushiro employs around 20 people at peak in Japan, roughly 18 of them part-time, yet labor still accounts for 20%–25% of costs; in much of China’s restaurant industry, labor can represent half the cost base.

  • Dongzi also warns that Japanese companies had many failures when they first entered China, and even brands that survived may not all be thriving today. China’s profits remain significantly higher than Japan’s despite its own deflation, however, so some capabilities forged in Japan have been amplified in China.

  • What can be borrowed is not a fixed model but a “performance mindset.” Founders must personally identify the local customer’s experience peak, rather than outsource innovation or fall into a prisoner’s dilemma of “you copy me, I copy you.” Haidilao-style emotional service and attractive stores are only 2 forms of performance; fresh-preparation movements, aromas and interaction offer many more.

  • Dongzi once believed that “only efficiency kings can globalize,” but now says “efficiency kings cannot necessarily globalize.” Food is intensely local: Sushiro added substantial cheese and toppings in China, while Rou Rou Da Mi may have no stores in Japan and operate only in China. The capabilities trained by Japanese deflation are merely an entry qualification; localization determines whether the model can take root.

  • Another weakness of Japanese companies is dependence on tacit understanding. Ramen customers may clear their own bowls and wipe tables, and many rules need not be written into manuals. In a market where consumers, employees, suppliers and real-estate partners do not share those assumptions, the model can fail. Dongzi believes companies only earn a true overseas ticket when they standardize and visualize “why they win,” as Uniqlo has done.

15. Chinese Brands Break Through in Japan by Having “No Baggage,” but Must Accept Slow Payback

  • Dongzi initially said the best first-mover brands for Japan are those that “know how to perform,” but admitted Yang Guo Fu was more a case of “the wind happened to blow its way.” Japanese young people have not seen meaningful income growth, and bold flavors are more attractive in a weak economy; malatang offers stimulation beyond curry, ramen and mapo tofu while appearing relatively healthy because of its lower carbohydrate and greasiness profile.

  • M Stand’s advantage is its “lack of baggage.” Japan’s coffee industry carries deeply embedded views on roast depth and bean origins, while Chinese consumers treat coffee as a beverage. “Flavorful coffees” such as matcha and coconut lattes can therefore provide innovations that Japan’s domestic system struggles to generate internally, while stores retain a premium experiential design.

  • These Chinese brands remind Japanese peers to abandon fixed ideas such as “coffee should be made this way” and “sushi cannot include avocado.” Dongzi believes Japan excels at linear technical innovation but also needs cultural breakthrough innovation, allowing categories to evolve into new forms across countries.

  • The final risk warning is deliberately restrained: Japanese restaurant net margins are often 2%, 3% or 5%—“5 points at most”—with returns far slower than in China. Once established, however, customer loyalty, leases and the competitive environment may allow a store to operate steadily for 10 years. Entrants should lower their short-term expectations and personally handle the areas with the greatest language and information gaps, or risk receiving feedback filtered through intermediaries.